Thursday, November 5, 2015

Jacksonville, FL–The End of the Journey!


Our incredible journey came to an end (for now) on Wednesday, November 4.  That morning after a stunning dawn, we left our beautiful anchorage next to Cumberland Island for the relatively short cruise to Jacksonville. 

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Our first decision was whether to travel on the outside (the Atlantic Ocean) or take the ICW.  Jonny was inclined to do one more outside journey but as we listened to the weather, we decided not to.  Although the wave heights were not too big, the interval or time between waves was only 4 seconds which makes for a very bouncy and often uncomfortable ride.  The downside of taking the ICW route was the frequent shoaling and the fact that we would be traveling at low tide which makes traversing those shoals more nerve-wracking.

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The weather on this last day was stupendous – sunny skies, warm temperatures, very little wind.  A perfect way to end our trip! 

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We left bright and early at 7:30 and threaded our way along Fernandina Beach and Amelia Island. 

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We passed some cranes by Fernandina Beach that looked like giant metal dinosaurs!

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We encountered the anticipated shoaling,  In only one spot did we bump the bottom but we were able to plow our way through to deeper waters.

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As we got closer to Jacksonville, we crossed the St. John’s River and were getting increasingly near to our final destination.

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Still, we had some wildlife to welcome us as we drew closer and we passed by some of the beautiful watery lowlands.

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We arrived after lunch at the Palm Cove Marina where we’ll keep the boat until Sunday. 

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It was with mixed feelings that we arrived – it seemed like we got home more quickly than expected and we weren’t quite prepared for the transition!  But the folks at Palm Cove were very accommodating and we were tied up and secure in no time.

We had just enough time to wash down the boat (and ourselves) when our friends Natalie and Alex Costas arrived. 

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We had invited them aboard for a celebratory bottle of champagne to toast the end of our journey.  Many thanks to Lynn’s work colleagues, Deb and April, who had given us two great bottles of champagne as a bon voyage gift – one to drink upon our departure and one to celebrate our safe arrival home. And celebrate we did with a delicious tuna tartar appetizer courtesy of Natalie!

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That evening we were all invited to the home of Nick and Alixe Stam for dinner.  They had recently moved to a new home in Ponte Vedra Beach.  We had a lovely time with them enjoying a vegan dinner  prepared by a chef they had brought in for the occasion.   It was so much fun catching up with everyone and sharing stories!

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For those who are interested in a few facts about our adventure, here is some of the information that Jonny has been tracking each day.  He has a lot more information about costs and engine hours, etc. which he’ll be happy to share with anyone who is interested.  But here are a few tidbits that may be of general interest:

  • Number of travel travel days  - 210
  • Number of nights – 209
  • % of time staying at marinas  - 67.5%
  • % of time anchoring or staying at free docks – 32.5%
  • Travel days – 130
  • No travel days – 80
  • Nautical miles traveled – 4,913
  • Gallons of diesel consumed – 2,164
  • Biggest expense categories – 1. marinas  and 2. eating out

We exceeded our budget by about 10% but we don’t regret a single decision we made.  We had anticipated staying at anchor 50  percent of the time which we didn’t do primarily because we had some extended stays due to family obligations and also because we were new to this cruising lifestyle.  Going forward, we are likely to increase the percentage of time at anchor because we have grown to love that part of the travel and we’ve become much more comfortable with that option.

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Our plan for the next few weeks include picking up our two cats and driving down to Miami.  Once our furniture is delivered, we’ll set up our newly renovated home in Miami Beach.  And we’ll collect  our two dogs and bring them home as well. 

We want to thank the many people who helped us make this journey possible - Andy and Ed for caring for our dogs and  Holly for taking care of our cats;  Ken and Fred, Zendo’s previous owners, who patiently helped us trouble shoot any little issue that came up during the trip;  Duane and Diane for buddy boating with us during the big waters of the St. Lawrence and the Maritimes; Robbie for joining us to cross the Bay of Fundy;  Barbara and Barry and Jim and Danette for sharing  their experience and guidebooks with us.  We are grateful, also, to those who we visited during our travels and those friends and family members who joined us on portions of the trip.  We also greatly appreciate the positive feedback and encouragement from those who followed our blog and always cheered us on!

We plan to bring Zendo down to Coconut Grove before Christmas where she will live at a marina there.  We look forward to many more adventures on her in the future! She has certainly served us well!

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Wednesday, November 4, 2015

Cumberland Island, GA (return trip)


On our second to the last travel day of our trip on Nov. 3, we started off at dawn on a partly cloudy day.  But as the day wore on it cleared up nicely and turned out to be another beautiful weather day.  We were anchored next to Fort Frederica off of St. Simon’s Island and bound for an anchorage on Cumberland Island. 

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We took a little detour to Brunswick, Georgia to take advantage of the lowest diesel prices around.  The entrance to the river was very narrow due to dredging.  From a distance it looked as if it was completely blocked!

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There were a lot of working fishing boats there along the East Brunswick River including one with a typical Georgia name!

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We cruised down the Fredericka River, a more appealing alternative to the ICW .  It wound circuitously through the north Georgia lowlands  and provided great vistas everywhere we looked.

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We made our way down the coast along Jekyll Island and beautiful Cumberland Island.  For those who don’t know, Cumberland Island has been designated as a national seashore and is now a national park.  It is a great place to visit with miles of beautiful beaches, wild horses and an interesting history.

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We saw lots of birds and playful dolphins and we cruised past Plum Orchard on  Cumberland Island.  We had anchored here on our way north but we wanted to make it a bit further south on this 17.5 mile long island.

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We eventually found a perfect anchorage among at least half a dozen sail boats near the southwest coast of Cumberland Island.

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We settled down to our last night at anchor and made more appointments for our week-long stay in Jacksonville.  We have to use up our provisions so we had a simple dinner of burgers, fried potatoes and summer squash.  After catching up with the family by phone, we settled down to watch one more movie and get to sleep early. 

We are feeling very nostalgic about the end of our special journey.  It has truly been a most wonderful experience!

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Tuesday, November 3, 2015

St. Simon’s Island Anchorage, GA


We had another day of outstanding weather on Nov. 2 as we began our cruise at 7:30 from our anchorage behind Queen Bess Island bound for an anchorage by St. Simon’s Island.   How fortunate we are to complete our trip under a perfect weather window with sunny days, mild winds and temperatures in the 70’s!

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We love cruising through Georgia’s beautiful low country with its undulating landscape and winding rivers.  We spent a good part of the day on the South Altamaha River, one of the most scenic that we’ve been on during this trip.  It is fairly narrow and winding and its twists and turns require vigilance, but make the trip so much more interesting.

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We are seeing many fewer houses on this part of the journey which is fine with us.  Traveling through pristine landscapes and anchoring out is such a peaceful and rewarding way to wrap up our trip. 

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We arrived at our anchorage next to Fort Frederica which is on St. Simon’s Island at about 4:00.  No other boats were nearby – we had the  place all to ourselves.  On our trip north, we had stayed near this site and had explored the fort at some length.  This time we stayed on board and relaxed knowing that we’ll be extremely busy over the next few weeks,  moving back to Miami Beach, unpacking and setting up our home there, and helping Jonny’s mother find a suitable place to live.  We are looking forward to seeing  our home  as it has undergone some significant renovation while we’ve been away.   Those who know Lynn may find it hard to believe that she was so “hands off” on this project, but we have great faith in our friend Aileen who has been managing the entire process for us.

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After we anchored, we took this precious time to relax and catch up with our family.  We had a simple dinner of salmon, quinoa and summer squash and watched a rather unique movie called Hysteria.  Another early night makes us feel close to the land, like farmers – early to bed and early to rise…..

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These days are becoming bittersweet for us.  The trip has been everything we had hoped for and more and to think of it ending is sad.  But if all goes well, we hope to have more opportunities to travel aboard Zendo.  There are lots of options for us  to explore and we are already talking about the Bahamas, Exumas or Abacos, a return visit to New England, doing the entire Great Loop or maybe the triangle loop.  The options are limitless as long as time, money, family and pet obligations allow!

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