Annapolis, MD

Once again we were heading to Annapolis.  This time for  several days as it would be our base of operations for a visit from our good friends Addie and Lange King and later, Greg and Lynda Gallagher.  So on Sunday, October 6, we left our lovely anchorage on Harness Creek.  We made the short two hour cruise over to the Annapolis mooring field.  Once again, we had to circle the mooring field for about an hour before a mooring  ball became vacant.  We were lucky to snag it when we did.  The boat searching behind us was still searching 90 minutes later!  The Annapolis Harbor was gearing up for the sailboat show which is a big one.  We were the only trawler in the mooring field, all the others were sailboats and a couple of mega yachts.  

This was to be Lynn’s last real day of cruising for the year since she would be heading up to Philadelphia at the end of the week and Jonny would be heading to Olverson's Marina on the Yeocomico River off of the Potomac to winterize the boat all by himself!

Addie and Lange arrived on Sunday night and we met them for dinner at the Boatyard Grill, our new favorite place.  It’s away from downtown Annapolis where because of the back-to-back boat shows, it’s been kind of crazy.  It’s easy to dinghy to, the food is delicious and it has a great happy hour.

On Monday, after breakfast on the aft deck, we headed into Annapolis proper. Addie and Lange had never been here before so it was a real treat for them to see this charming and historic city.  We walked through old neighborhoods, St. John’s College and the Naval Academy. We had lunch and some beers at Galway’s Irish Pub but were back to Zendo for happy hour and a light dinner.

The weather on Tuesday was quite cool and overcast. Originally we were going to go for a local cruise and maybe anchor overnight somewhere. Instead we decided just to do a day cruise over to Cantler’s, a famous crab restaurant, and tie up there for lunch.  Jonny was still having problems with his ear so he wanted to stay close to Annapolis to get an appointment with an ENT.  We had an excessively crabby lunch, took a little walk in the neighborhood to work it off and headed back to Zendo for a nap.

That evening we rallied and headed back to the Boatyard Grill to take advantage of their great happy hour. It was our last night with the Kings who were leaving in the morning.

They departed on Wednesday morning after a very fun three day visit.  This is the third time Addie and Lange have joined us on Zendo while we were cruising. Each time was either on or adjacent to Lynn’s birthday so the visits are always very celebratory.

On Wednesday and Thursday it was time to start packing both for Lynn’s trip to Phoenix (to accompany Stephanie for an awards ceremony) and for the items Jonny would be bringing home to Miami.  We dinghied over to Annapolis each day to do laundry and so Jonny could go to the ENT while Lynn strolled through the old town and shopped.  Fortunately, the doctor finally diagnosed his ear problem and was able to correct it. No more pain and discomfort after six weeks! 

Our friends Greg and Lynda who live in Alexandria came for lunch on Friday.  Lynn went back with them so she could get a train to Philly on Saturday.  Stephanie invited her to go to Phoenix where Stephanie and others from Aramark who were being recognized for their excellent performance and contribution to the company would be feted at the Phoenician Resort.  Of course, Lynn was thrilled to be chosen as Stephanie’s “plus one”!

This has been yet another wonderful summer of cruising aboard Zendo. Although we didn’t travel as far as we had in the past nor for as long a period of time, it was still a perfect trip.  We took more time to relax and “smell the roses”.  We’ll be sad to get off the water for the next six months but we’re looking forward to settling into our new condo in Miami.  And the best part is we can just look out any window and see beautiful Biscayne Bay!

Harness Creek near Annapolis, MD

On Saturday, October 5, the morning was spent on projects, Jonny working on his MTOA Board commitment and Lynn, as usual, on her blog.  We planned to head back across the Chesapeake because the winds were forecasted to be lighter than the following day and we had to get back to Annapolis because our friends, Addie and Lange King, were due to arrive on either Sunday night or Monday.  Though we would have happily spent more time in the Choptank we decided it would be prudent to cross sooner rather than later.

On the way back, we traveled through Knapp’s Narrows going under the bridge and cleared Tilghman Island.

The bay turned out to be remarkably calm with lots of sailboats taking advantag of the breezy weather.

We were going back and forth on where to anchor for the night.  Jonny really wanted to visit a “new to us” anchorage called Harness Creek just south of Annapolis and very near to Eastport where we would be meeting the Kings.

The anchorage proved to be another outstanding one.  There are so many of them on the Chesapeake!  We found a spot such that no one was behind us. A beautiful park called Quiet Waters was on one side and an attractive home nestled among trees on the opposite shore.  Although there were about four other boats nearby, there was plenty of room for all of us and it was very  quiet and peaceful.  

Jonny went for a long paddle, we had leftovers for dinner and just relaxed and read all evening.  We can’t get enough of these peaceful anchorages.

La Trappe Creek on the Choptank

We left our anchorage on Harris Creek at 9 a.m. on Friday, October 4 for a cruise to Cambridge and later to another anchorage in the Choptank. The weather was quite blustery. There were  1-2 foot waves but we were reasonably sheltered in the Choptank basin. We made our way up the Choptank River noting the place we planned to anchor that night on La Trappe Creek.  We made our way to Cambridge, MD, the county seat of Dorchester County where we planned to explore for a few hours.

We tied up at the town dock where a friendly local boat owner gave us a hand.   We chatted with him for awhile.  He and his wife had a sailboat and a condo next to our dock. They sail to the Bahamas and beyond every winter and we compared notes on the various places each of us have traveled to.

We walked into town which had some very attractive homes near the waterfront.

After a satisfying lunch at  Jimmie & Sook’s, a local spot on the main drag that had good food we visited the Harriet Tubman museum. This small museum provided a good overview of her heroic role in helping to free slaves through the Underground Railroad.  Outside of the little museum was an evocative mural of her painted on the building’s exterior.  There is a much larger commemoration to her outside of town, the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad State Park which we unfortunately were unable to visit this time. 

Other interesting murals were scattered throughout the city. 

It turns out that Cambidge is the inspiration of the fictional town of Patamoke that plays a central role in Chesapeake, the historical novel about the Chesapeake that Lynn is currently reading, a fact she only became aware of the next day!

We headed back to LaTrappe Creek where we explored three different lovely anchorages before deciding on the first one that had two other boats in it. It seemed to offer the best protection from the wind and the space was large enough to accommodate several boats.

We skipped dinner that night due to our hearty lunch and were witness to a world class sunset. Later we watched The Shipping News, an excellent adaptation of the book of the same name.

Dunn Cove off Harris Creek in the Choptank

We left our beautiful anchorage on Little Round Bay on the Severn River on Thursday, October 3. We were crossing the bay to spend a few days on the Eastern Shore and more specifically the Choptank. But first we had to stop for fuel at tiny Smith’s Marina which had the lowest fuel prices around.  The marina was tucked away on the Severn River. It seemed so remote and out of the way yet was not far from Annapolis as the crow flies. It’s been under the same ownership since 1936 and the nice young man who helped us was part of the Smith family!

We cruised across the Chesapeake on a cool and cloudy day with calm seas.  As we approached the Eastern Shore, we passed through Knapps Narrows and considered stopping for lunch on Tilghman Island. But we hadn’t done our homework on where and how to get in there.  It was very shallow and the docking was iffy so we decided to move on. Tilghman Island is very much a working town. The waterfront houses each one had its own  fishing boat tied up to its dock.

We found a great  anchorage in Dunn Cove off of Harris Creek. This is a beautiful large cove with a few lovely homes set back from the shoreline. We set our anchor in the middle of the bay across from a wooded area. It was very calm and Jonny took off for what has become his daily hour long paddle.

Afterwards, we had our customary refreshment on the aft deck. Jonny makes an absolutely wonderful perfect manhattan - the key is rye with half sweet and half dry vermouth!

We had the same vinegar chicken dinner Lynn had made a couple of weeks ago and once again the convection oven quit working midway through.  This time Jonny figured out the problem without having to remove the microwave.  It turns out we can’t run the convection at such a high heat for too long because it is located in a confined space and shuts itself off when it gets too hot.

That  evening we watched the last of Ken Burn’ excellent series on country music which we highly recommend. 

Severn River near Annapolis

This October 2 was our last day with Cathy and we brought her in the dinghy to Eastport so she could get an Uber to the airport.  Our plan was to move on from our Annapolis mooring.  But first we stopped at a market to pick up a few things and passed a home with a unique boat-shaped window box filled with pumpkins.

We also stopped to visit with Karen and Mike, our friends on Imagine who were anchored behind us. We had a nice time catching up on each other’s adventures this season.  They are full-time liveaboards with lots of expertise.

Returning to Zendo, we had a quick lunch and then took off.  The wind had kicked up a little so we decided not to cross the Chesapeake Bay and instead headed up the Severn River just north of Annapolis. Karen and Mike had recommended an anchorage there. It was a hot, sunny day and our cruise was a short one, just a little over an hour.  We arrived at the beautiful quiet anchorage in Round Bay and dropped the hook.

We tried to relax for awhile but it was so hot that Lynn couldn’t stand it any longer and went for a swim.  Jonny quickly followed. The water was cold but not freezing - it definitely did the trick!  We stayed in until Lynn received her daily phone call from Stephanie.

We had been eating out for several days and were more than ready to cut back a little.  So we had a nice big salad for dinner and relaxed for the night in our quiet pristine anchorage.

Annapolis, MD

We left Rock Hall after a leisurely morning on Monday, September 30 and headed back across the Chesapeake Bay to Annapolis.  We had another fine weather day - warm and sunny with smooth seas - boating at its best.  After about two and a half hours, we entered the Annapolis Harbor mooring field and were told by the dock master that they were full due to the upcoming Annapolis Boat Show.   We decided to try our luck and cruised up and down the mooring field and at last, lo and behold, we found an empty mooring ball! We snagged the last mooring that had just been released and it was in a great location.  We were surrounded by boats, mostly sailboats, some trawlers and a few mega yachts, the largest one being right in front of us!

We dinghied into town to start exploring.  Annapolis is such a beautiful historic small city.  It was great to be back there.

After reading reviews of the million restaurants in town, we decided to go to the Boatyard in Eastport, just across the water. It was reported to have the BEST crab cakes in Maryland and a great happy hour.  So we dinghied five minutes over to Eastport just in time for happy hour. As it turned out, the crab cakes and the happy hour proved to be as good as they said.  Apparently, Michelle Obama declared them to be the best she’s ever had and we have to agree that they were excellent!

The next morning Jonny went to another health clinic because his ear, that had been bothering him for weeks, was still not better even though he had already seen a doctor. Lynn and Cathy checked out a number of nice shops in town and scouted out a lovely French restaurant for lunch.  Jonny met us there and we had a very delicious lunch of soft shell crabs and a bottle of rose’ wine! 

After lunch we headed over to the United States Naval Academy where we participated in an excellent tour.  We had a delightfully enthusiastic multi-lingual guide who showed us everything she could and regaled us with interesting facts, lots of history and entertaining anecdotes about this storied academy.  The grounds were beautiful and the facilities were outstanding. We even saw a plaque with Cathy’s great uncle’s name commemorating him and others who lost their lives fighting for our country (see the second name from the top on the last photo that follows).

The tour was so long that we went straight back to the Boatyard for their great happy hour and skipped dinner. Are we just a little food obsessed??

We returned to Zendo just before dark and hit the sack early after our fun-filled day.