Pearl Island, Ontario

We left our lovely anchorage at Snug Harbor at 9 a.m. on Monday, August 20 so we could get in a full day of travel. We had a great day of cruising. One of the highlights was going through Hang Dog Channel.  The marina manager from Bay Port had discouraged (particularly large boat) cruisers from taking that route because it is so narrow and there are so many rocks and sharp turns.  Of course, that was an invitation to Jonny so we took that route and we’re glad we did!  It was quite spectacular with gorgeous rock formations everywhere. All the twists and turns made it more fun and interesting.

As we consulted the weather we decided to bypass Wright’s Marina to get further since the weather over the next two days was going to deteriorate.  So we continued on until 4:30 where we cruised through the Bustard Islands which had been closed due to the forest fires this summer.  Lucky for us this passage has reopened and there was little evidence of the fires from our vantage point.

We chose a beautiful anchorage in a cove with other boats and just a few cottages.  After we set the anchor, the couple aboard a trawler anchored in the next cove dinghied over to greet us.  They told us that they had started to anchor in the spot we were in but the  locals had advised them not to because when the weather turns, the wind funnels in off the lake down Gunbarrel Channel into the anchorage. 

Reluctantly, given the local knowledge and even though our weather review didn’t show wind coming from that direction, we moved further into a narrow channel where we set the anchor again.  However, we were now concerned that we were too close to the very rocky shoreline.   So Jonny decided to tie off the stern of the boat to a tree on shore (he had been wanting to do this ever since we arrived in the Georgian Bay)!  Some areas where we’ve been cruising actually have rings drilled into the boulders on shore so boats can tie up to them.  We looked for some nearby rings but didn’t find any, so we just used trees.  It took us three tries with two sets of lines running from the stern to two trees on shore.

Finally, by 6:30 (two hours later) we relaxed with some adult beverages and had dinner.  The setting was absolutely beautiful.  We were only ten feet from the rocky coastline but we were securely anchored in place in case the winds came whistling through (not likely to happen). It was profoundly quiet and just wonderful!

We went to bed early because we wanted to leave the next morning at the crack of dawn.  We would be crossing a big corner of Lake Huron and the forecast called for rain and higher winds the following day.  We wanted to get as close to Killarney as we could so we could stay at a marina if we were held up by weather for a day.

Snug Harbor, Ontario

We were anxious to see if the engine started when we woke up on Sunday August 19.  Fortunately, it did and it sounded great!  We were very happy and greatly relieved to have finally corrected the problem.  Jonny went to pay our marina bill while Lynn exercised and got ready to push off.  After a quick pump-out, we were on our way by 9.  At first we thought we would take the quicker outside route and we did for awhile and then we switched to the small boat channel, a more interesting and beautiful route. Even though it was Sunday, there was not a lot of boat traffic.  We cruised through gorgeous rocky scenery with interesting markers and cottages scattered here and there.  This contemporary style was the exception.

Lynn rocked out to Aretha Franklin for much of the cruise. Hail to the Queen of Soul who sadly just entered a new realm of of the divine!

We decided to anchor at Snug Harbor so we could take the new dinghy for a spin and eat at Gilly’s, a well known fish restaurant that many people have recommended to us.  We needed to arrive fairly early because they stop serving at 6 p.m. And there is always a wait to get in.  Lynn called them to see about dockage and to let them know we were coming.  

Our anchorage was in a small harbor with some cottages but also stretches of undeveloped boulder-strewn coastline.  Our friend Dwayne had entered a review of this anchorage in the Active Captain website so we knew it would be good.  It was also a little further off the small boat channel and we thought the alternative anchorage we were considering might be likely to get more crowded as evening approached. It had one sailboat in it when we passed and the one we chose had none.

Jonny went for a bracing swim while Lynn updated the blog.  Then we scrambled aboard the dinghy so as not to be late to Gilly’s.  When we arrived, a sign was posted saying that they had stopped seating for dinner.  Lynn appealed this dictum by reminding them that she had called earlier to let them know we were coming.  They kindly acquiesced and we sat on their porch with a refreshing cocktail to wait for our table.

Our wait was a short one and we proceeded to enjoy a very good dinner.  The restaurant was much nicer than what we expected. Instead of the typical very casual fish camp type restaurant, this one was nicely decorated in simple clean white board and batten motif. It reminded us of one of our favorite restaurants to in Ponte Vedra, the Palm Valley Fish Camp.  We enjoyed our meals of local fish so much so that we even made room for their homemade peach pie for dessert (Jonny’s favorite).

Our dinghy is proving to be a very good purchase as we used it to comfortably explore the bay where we were anchored staying high and dry and cruising faster and more comfortably than in our old dinghy.

Midland, Ontario 2nd stay

The first thing we did on Thursday, August 16 was to try out our new dinghy by taking it for a spin around this pretty anchorage.  The dinghy is great and Jonny is one happy guy!

His happiness was shattered a few minutes later when Zendo’s engine wouldn’t start as we were ready to leave!  It turned over once and then died.  Even with all the work that was done with the fuel leak the day before which we thought had corrected the problem!  Jonny proceeded to bleed the engine again and we tried starting it several times.  No luck.  He called the mechanic from the day before and they tried a few more things.  Nothing. The owner of the marina was looking at options including who might be able to tow us all the way back to Midland, if necessary.  Jonny called Sea Tow to see if they could be used given the fact that we were in Canada and not the U.S.  He also talked to a local tow guy who talked him through a different procedure using the lift pump to bleed the engine. It worked! But because the cause of the problem had not been determined, we weren’t confident about continuing our journey and decided to go back to Bay Port Marina in Midland where there were sufficient resources and a very helpful marina manager. 

Finally at 12:30 we raised the anchor and took off for the four hour trip back to Midland.  We traveled on the outside route.  Though not as scenic, we made slightly better time and as the Sea Tow guy told us, we would be more easily accessible to them should anything happen along the way! Thankfully, we had smooth sailing on a nice, though somewhat cloudy day. We returned to the same dock slip and shortly after we settled in, it started to pour rain.  We had arrived just in time!

Jonny decided to cap the vacuum guage line that he had disconnected a few days earlier thinking that doing so might get to the root of the problem.  In the meantime, he had been noticing that our new refrigerator was not working properly so he contacted a refrigeration mechanic to come by the next  morning to see if he could fix it. We stayed in that night, a little discouraged but hopeful that we could leave the next day.

The next day was also our 32nd wedding anniversary!  We spent the bulk of it on boat chores and of course hosting the refrigerator mechanic.  He was successful in his efforts.  Apparently, our new appliance was from a bad year and the company that made it provides new parts to correct the problem.  Unfortunately, the dealer we bought it from did a funky job installing it and didn’t follow the proper procedures that would have corrected the problem from the start. 

Lynn kept busy cleaning Zendo including all the interior woodwork and wood floors since the carpet was rolled up to be able to access the engine room. After the repairs were completed, Jonny tried the engine twice and it started which was a good sign, but we wanted to have a full overnight as our problems had occurred when the boat sits overnight.  Jonny went to get a haircut and we caught up with Stephanie by phone.  We had a lovely anniversary dinner at the Explorer’s Cafe’ where we had eaten the week before.

Walking back to the marina we saw the tail end of the annual tugboat parade which reminded us of the Christmas boat parades in Florida.

We were ready to take off on Saturday, August 18 but when Jonny started the engine it died after 30 seconds and wouldn’t start again.  A mechanic came by at 8 a.m. It turned out the vacuum gauge wasn’t the issue. They bled the engine, tried starting it a couple of times and the mechanic, after listening very carefully to the engine sounds, determined that the problem was not air in the engine.  He diagnosed it as a poor connection to the injector pump solenoid.  He replaced it with a $2 part and it started right up!  We asked him to come back at 4:30 to check again.  

In the meantime, we went for a lovely bike ride along a wooded path that lined the coast from one end of town to the other. 

From there we went into Midland where a cool tugboat festival was taking place.

This little guy was Lynn’s favorite!

There were all kinds of exhibits including some interesting wildlife creatures. 

We treated ourselves to ice cream cones, bought the local butter tarts and stopped for coffee at Jonny’s favorite coffee shop (he actually had one after nine days here)!

When the mechanic returned at 4:30, thankfully, the engine started right up.  But the real proof would be whether it would start the next morning. So Lynn made dinner - chicken a la Nonna and the homemade pasta we had frozen from the Italian market in Montreal along with purple (!) green beans from the Midland farmer’s market (that turned green upon cooking).   Delicious and lots of leftovers!  We entertained ourselves that evening by watching two episodes of the excellent British series, Dancing on the Edge, that Andy had lent us for the trip.  We are ready to move on from Midland and its murals, nice town that it is!

Wani Bay, Ontario

We were planning to leave first thing in the morning to go back to Bay Port Marina in Midland on Wednesday, August 15 to get the increasingly problematic fuel leak fixed.  But when Jonny went to start the engine, it wouldn’t start!  This had never happened before and was very concerning as we were at anchor in the middle of Georgian Bay!  He decided to bleed the engine and see if that would correct the problem thinking that there was air in the line preventing the engine from igniting.  So we stacked up all the furniture in the saloon and rolled up the rug so he could get better access to the engine room.  With Lynn’s help at the helm, he methodically bled each cylinder and lo and behold the engine started!  What a relief!  

So we quickly pulled up anchor and headed back to the marina.  Two hours later on a sunny pleasant day were back at the same berth we occupied for the last five days.  A mechanic came by to work with Jonny on the fuel leak and while they were doing that, Lynn snuck in some laundry time. 

Before too long, the leak was fixed with some tools the mechanic had which Jonny had lacked.  The day before we left Midland, Jonny had discovered that there was a new ten foot RIB (rigid inflatable boat) for sale at a local dealership.  It was a good price considering the value of the dollar here but we decided to pass on it since it wasn’t a necessity and we had planned to buy a used dinghy, not a new one.  But since we were back in Midland and Jonny’s desire to replace our soft-bottomed inflatable dingy hadn’t abated, we rationalized that fate brought us back to Midland and maybe we should reconsider our decision.  What clinched it was Lynn suggesting that we could buy it as our anniversary present to ourselves (our 32nd wedding anniversary was in two days).  Jonny immediately called the boat dealer and the brand new 10 foot Highland RIB was delivered within the hour!

We then had to fold up the old dinghy and find a place to store it.  We applied sun protection to the new dinghy and Jonny rowed it over to Zendo.  He reconfigured the straps that hoist it onto our davits and it fit perfectly!  Jonny is now one happy guy with our fuel leak fixed and a brand spanking new RIB.  

So we paid our marina and mechanic bill and hightailed it back out to Georgian Bay. It was a beautiful travel day and we passed some lovely scenery and cool looking cottages.

Our thought was to travel about three hours to have dinner at Harry’s, a popular fish restaurant that all the Loopers go to. But as the afternoon wore on, we realized that we didn’t have time to reach Harry’s and find an anchorage before dark.  We didn’t want to chance wandering around the rocky islets at dusk.  So we found a very nice anchorage in Wani Bay, an unofficial name given to this lovely spot by locals.  There were several boats in the anchorage when we arrived but we proceeded down a narrow finger off the bay and found a perfect anchorage with no one else around.  We settled in for the evening, had a dinner of leftovers and enjoyed the quiet of our peaceful anchorage.

Longuissa Bay, Ontario

We got a slow start on Tuesday morning, August 14 because Lynn wanted to write the blog entry for the travel adventures over the past five days.  We finally left Bay Port Marina at 10:40 and made our first foray into the 30,000 islands portion of Georgian Bay. Cruising among rocky outcroppings on a beautiful calm and sunny day was a wonderful experience. 

We passed through the Musquash Channel where we saw a variety of the “cottages”that are so prevalent here.

We explored two other anchorages off of Bone Island but didn’t choose them because they were very small and already had plenty of boats in them.  Georgian Bay is a popular cruising area and we are finding that you have to get to an anchorage early if you want the prime spot and there is more than likely to be other boats there.  Somehow we thought it would be a bit less populated than it is.  But it is still exquisite and there are many fabulous places to anchor.

We cruised a long narrow passage into Longuissa Bay which had been recommended to us.  This was a larger anchorage then the others with two boats in the bay and one in the channel.  We spent quite a bit of time trying to anchor in the narrow area without blocking the channel.  The third time was the charm and we finally got ourselves set, a little closer to our sailboat neighbor than we would have liked but OK no nonetheless.

Jonny went down below to check the engine and discovered a significant fuel leak!  This was very upsetting as it was not apparent in  the five days we were at the marina.  He spent an hour and a half identifying the source of the leak and trying unsuccessfully to address it by tightening screws, making phone calls, etc.  We finally decided to return to Bay Port Marina the following morning to have greater access to tools and parts to fix it.

To work off his frustration, Jonny went for a very long paddle while Lynn read and started dinner.  We caught up with Stephanie by phone and after dinner watched a movie.  It was a very calm anchorage. Before we went to bed,we went outside to look at the night sky.  There was no ambient light so the stars were out in full force. We could see the Milky Way and it was breath-taking.  That night, Lynn slept soundly through the night though Jonny was awakened several times by Georgio for no apparent reason!