Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Lessons in Locking


In describing our adventures in locking, several people have asked to explain how locks work and what it’s like to go through locks, so here’s my attempt to describe the experience. 

Locks were created to facilitate transportation of goods between bodies of water that are at different elevations.  Before highways, waterways were the primary means of transporting goods from one place to another.  Before locks, goods would have to be unloaded from a boat, moved onto horses or carts and carried overland to the next river where they would be reloaded onto other boats to reach their destination.  Locks, along with the digging of canals between bodies of water, transformed the ability to carry on commerce before the invention of the railroads and the construction of highways.

 Waterford lock

The locks we are traveling on in this portion of our journey are primarily used by pleasure craft but were originally built for commercial use. On the major waterways such as the Mississippi, they are heavily used by commercial traffic as well. Here is a map of the locks that we’ll be traversing on the portion of our trip from the Hudson River through to Montreal.

Locking map 

Locks are essentially mechanical walls that hold water back and release water to allow boats to transition from one elevation to another.  Locks are staffed by a lock master who a boater notifies when approaching a lock.  On the NY canals there is a red traffic light indicating that the boater must wait until the lock is ready.   You can lock up or lock down depending on whether the elevation you are moving towards is higher or lower.  In either case,  the lock master opens the large gates and directs boats to enter and tie up on either the port (left) or starboard (right) sides of the lock.  Depending on the size of the lock or the number of boats waiting to lock through, the NY locks can hold between one and eight boats. On the St. Lawrence and the Mississippi Rivers the locks are much bigger and hold large  barges as well.

Waterford lock 1

The boater must have already placed several large fenders on the sides  of the boat to prevent the boat from rubbing against the lock walls which are often rough, dirty and slimy.  

Locking JK 4

When entering the lock, the boater must secure the boat to the lock wall either by grabbing a line (rope) that is hanging down the lock wall or hooking one of the boater’s lines around a vertical pole on the lock wall.  The boater then holds those lines (not tying them) while the lock master closes the gate and floods the lock with water (if locking up).  The NY locks are mechanical. The locks in Canada which we will pass through are turned by hand! As the lock floods with water, the boat rises higher and higher until it is even with the “higher ground.”  Sometimes it can be a challenge to hold the boat steady against the lock wall  especially if the water is flooding in and sloshing round.  But usually, it goes pretty smoothly.

Locking poleLocking Lynn 1Locking JK3Locking water

When the lock is full, the lockmaster opens the gate and directs the boaters to move out, one at a time.

  TRoy lock 1

When locking down, the same  process occurs except that the lockmaster is releasing water from the lock and the boat and water levels drop until they are level with the lower side of the waterway. Locking JK 5 WAterford lock 2

The dangers associated with locking are not securing to the lock wall properly (either tying up to tightly or too loosely). 

Dismal Swamp Deep Creek Lock 3

Lock tenders tend to be very friendly and helpful in providing information about the next lock.  Sometimes one has to wait for the locks to open and  circle around or tie up at a wall outside of the lock.  Oftentimes, there are attractive parklands nearby and sometimes one can tie up at one of these dock walls overnight.

  Dismal Swamp Deep Creek Lock 2Dismal Swamp Lock Sign

So far we have gone though about ten locks on the Hudson River and two in the Dismal Swamp.  We’ll have more to go through as we enter the Chambly Canal in Canada. We’ll keep our fingers crossed that all continues to go smoothly!

Sunday, June 28, 2015

Saratoga Springs, NY


We had a beautiful day cruising up the Hudson on June 24th going through four locks.  Everything went very smoothly except for two smallish “moments of terror.”  The first was as we waited in a tidal basin for a lock to open and our bottom kept bumping against something hard.  Our depths showed that we were in plenty of water.  What was it?  We never really found out, but likely it was a submerged log or stump.  The second moment occurred as we passed under a bridge.  All the bridges have 17 foot clearances and our boat (with our antennas lowered) is 16’4”.  We always confirm bridge heights with the lock master as the river is high with the spring run off and the lock masters can control the water height to some degree.  The lock master “thought” it would be OK but he wanted us to let him know after we went under it (not very reassuring for us)!  To play it safe, Jonny asked Lynn to get on top of the boat and watch the top of it as we went under the bridge.  Imagine how scary that was!  As we came closer and closer to the bridge, we were so close to touching that Lynn swears we were no more than 3 inches under it (see the the white space at the very bottom of the third photo)!   With a pounding heart, she came down to the flybridge announcing “never again!”  What if we didn’t have 3 inches to spare?  At that point, there was no time to turn around or shift into reverse.  Oh, the joys of boating!

Sarasota Schuylerville lock 2Saratoga Schuylerville lockWhitehall passing under bridge

But we arrived safely at Schuyler Yacht Basin, a charming old marina located about 10 miles east of Saratoga Springs in the town of Schuylerville.   Schuylerville has a memorial that commemorates the Battle of Saratoga which was a decisive battle and turning point in the Revolutionary War.  It took place less than a mile from where we were docked! We planned to stay two nights and rent a car so we could explore beautiful Saratoga Springs.

Sarasota Schuylerville marinaSarasota Schuyler marina 1Saratoga Schuyler Marine BasinSaratoga Jon

After picking up the car, we drove around Saratoga Springs and Jonny was able to show Lynn what a lovely town it is.  The downtown area is filled with cool shops and restaurants.  We had a great steak dinner at Sperry’s which has been around since the 1920’s and was filled with drawings of award-winning jockeys, trainers and owners.  

Saratoga storefrontSaratoga bikeSaratoga styleSaratoga graduationSaratoga Lynn Sperrys

The next day we explored more of the city including the racetrack (the season begins in July), Skidmore College, Sarasota Spa State Park, and the various neighborhoods surrounding them.  This is definitely horse country but it is also a city that appreciates the arts.   We visited the National Museum of Dance with a fascinating collection of film clips and exhibits of world renowned dancers representing all genres from ballet to tango to modern dance.  Throughout the city, we saw sculptures of ballet shoes and horses all decorated in different ways.

Saratoga ballet 3Saratoga ballet shoe 1Saratoga horse 1Saratoga colored horseSaratoga  pig art

Saratoga Springs is known for its mineral springs which are located throughout the city.  These are among the few naturally carbonated springs in the country. The springs were known by the Indians for their healing powers and they are very popular to this day.  Saratoga Springs became the place to see and be seen during the gilded age of the 1800’s to mid 1900’s when people would come to get away from the the city and  “take the waters.”  Saratoga Water, in the blue bottles, continues to be bottled directly from these springs.

Saratoga park viewSaratoga park vista

The Saratoga Spa State Park was created in 1835 and is on the National Register of Historic Places.  The park is is absolutely stunning with beautiful red brick bath houses and buildings located throughout its rolling hills.  There are numerous spas throughout the city but we chose to “take the waters” in the historical Roosevelt Baths that are within the park itself.  The bathhouse felt like we were stepping back in time to an era of genteel luxury.  There were about 20 separate bathing rooms, each with a very deep bathtub and spa table.  After donning our robes, we each were given our own tub in separate rooms.  The water was brownish, warm and effervescent.  It felt like entering a warm cocoon.  After 40 minutes of blissful relaxation, we felt renewed and completely refreshed.  What a treat!

Saratoga spa parkSaratoga park colonadeSaratoga Roosevelt spa signSaratoga Roosevelt baths

Adjacent to the park is the Saratoga Performing Arts Center (SPAC) which includes an outdoor theatre much like Tanglewood in the Berkshires or Wolf Trap outside of DC.  The day we were there, various high school graduation ceremonies were underway and the venue was preparing for an annual jazz festival that was to take place over the weekend featuring some really great artists.  Once again, our timing was off and we were not going to be able to take advantage of the event.  But our time in Saratoga was well spent and we strongly recommend this town as another great destination in New York state.

Saratoga L and J

Friday, June 26, 2015

New Baltimore, NY


Who ever heard of a town called New Baltimore? We hadn’t until we met the guys who own the Shady Harbor Marina there.  We met them at the Rendezvous, the conference of boaters who are traveling the Great Loop which we attended in Norfolk.  They lured us to their marina with free tee shirts and two for one drink guarantees.  So we chose to stay there as a convenient stopover point on our journey up the Hudson River.  Boaters can be easily bribed! 

On Father’s Day, we took our time leaving Kingston in order to ride the current up to New Baltimore.  Tides, currents, wind, etc. all play big roles in trip planning.  Our friends Chuck and Vickie on Patriot left at 11 a.m.  We left at 1 p.m.  We both travel at the same speed and they arrived at Shady Harbor only 45 minutes earlier than us.  We generally travel at 8 mph but with the current running we were able to travel at 9 1/2 to 10 mph (speed demons that we are)! 

And we passed another Hudson River lighthouse on yet one more scenic Hudson river cruise.

New Baltimore lighthouseNew Baltimore vista

Shady Harbor is a large and comfortable marina right on the river.  There, we joined Vickie and Chuck for dinner at the restaurant at the marina which was surprisingly good! 

The next morning, in the wake of his previous success, Jonny decided to work on fixing the leaky forward hatch while Lynn did laundry.  The latch was leaking slightly onto the V-berth mattress and since we are expecting guests when we arrive in Montreal, we had to get it fixed pretty quickly.  Once again, Jonny came to the rescue by removing and re-caulking  the hatch.  He also ordered a new seal to be shipped to a marina on Lake Champlain.  We’re hoping that that will do the trick but it won’t be fully tested until we get a another heavy rain.

We left Shady Harbor by 1 p.m. headed for Waterford, N.Y. and the real start of our locking adventures!

We passed Albany’s skyline but resisted the urge to stop.  Next time we come by, we need to visit New York’s capital.

Albany skyline 1Albany skyline 3Albany skyline 2

We also passed by the very industrial city of Troy, N.Y.  One of the most interesting waterfront sites was the modern bridge across the river. It was quite an architectural departure from most of the bridges we’ve seen to date. 

Troy bridge

It was in Troy that we traversed the biggest lock on the Hudson, the Federal Lock.  It was fairly intimidating because it was so large and we were so new to the experience.  We had to hold onto our lines for dear life to make sure we stayed close to the sides. We have about 25 more locks to go on this journey so we should be experts by then!

Troy 2TRoy lock 1

Kingston, NY


Continuing up the Hudson River, we arrived at Kingston, NY on June 18 where we stayed at the Rondout (Creek) Yacht Basin.  It was a beautiful day cruising up the Hudson during this eight hour trip.  We passed West Point on the west bank in a very dramatic setting, then Cold Spring and Hyde Park on the east bank (which we mentioned in our last blog). 

Kingston Hudson Highlands West PointKingston Hudson Highlands Westpoint3Kingston Hudson View of CIAKingston Hudson Bannerman Island

We visited Cold Spring and Hyde Park by car just a day or two earlier and it took less then an hour to get there.  But when one is traveling 8 mph by boat, life moves at a much slower pace!  This stretch of the Hudson is known as the Hudson Highlands.  The scenery is very evocative and  familiar if you know the work of the Hudson River School of Artists.  The scenery is dramatic with cliffs, wide expanses of green, and amazing mansions scattered on both banks.

Kingston Hudson Highlands River GourgeKingston Hudson Highlands River ViewKingston Hudson Highland Cliff House

As we arrived in Kingston, we passed the Esopus Lighthouse, one of many up and down the Hudson.

Kingston Hudson Esopus Lighthouse3

Jonny spent the first day in Kingston successfully fixing our two broken heads and reinforcing Lynn’s decision that he is the best husband – ever!  That evening we celebrated with dinner at the Marina Harbor Restaurant with Vicky and Chuck from Patriot who we had met at the Rendezvous.  We enjoyed hearing their story – they are both former FBI agents out of DC and have been traveling extensively on their boat for the last several years. 

On Saturday, we took a long, challenging and fun bike ride up, up, up the hill from our marina to the city of Kingston which is the third oldest city in New York.  It was also New York’s first capital.   Many of the larger river towns are built in two sections, the lower town which is right on the river,  and the upper town which is often the “high rent district.”  That section of Kingston is called the Stockade Area.  In 1658 the European  settlers who were living and farming there were ordered to move their houses and barns from the lowlands to a higher bluff and rebuild them behind a 14–foot high wall to protect them from the Esopus Indians with whom they were feuding.  During the day, the men left the stockade to work the fields, but the women and children were confined to life within the stockade.  The villagers lived this way until 1664 when a peace treaty was signed ending the second of the two wars with the Esopus Indians.   The streets of the original village are still there though the wooden houses are long gone.  Limestone houses were built in their place and many of  those houses still remain.  Over the years they have  been enhanced with architectural elements such as Gothic Revival gables and gingerbread trim. There is a block with four of these amazing  limestone house, one on each corner, and each is in remarkably great shape! 

Kingston stone house 2Kingston stone house 3Kingston stone house 4Kingston Stone house 5

The Stockade neighborhood was hosting an authentic  farmer’s market complete with local produce, meats, wines and even a classical string quartet performing.   But before we succumbed to buying everything in sight, we decided to eat lunch at a quirky, kitschy,  vegetarian café with delicious food called “Outdated, An Antique Café”  that was filled with all kinds of antiques and memorabilia, all of it for sale.

Kingston bandKingston cafe 1

We continued our bike ride through town and passed a number of  amazing murals painted on the sides of buildings.  We couldn’t help capturing some of the images. 

Kingston mural 2Kingston Mural 3Kingston Mural 1

Just as we were headed back to the boat (luckily it was all downhill now), it began to sprinkle.  The forecast called for rain the next day, so Lynn made some bean soup in the pressure cooker to keep us warm and cozy on what we expected to be a rainy trip to our next destination, New Baltimore, NY.