Deep Creek, VA (Great Dismal Swamp)

We wanted to get a somewhat early start on June 15 because we weren’t sure how far we would go through the Dismal Swamp - our destination for the day. After a quick walk through Elizabeth City to pick up some groceries, we took off at 8:30.  As soon as we went through the nearby drawbridge, we headed up the Pasquotank River which becomes the Great Dismal Swamp Canal passing several rowing skulls all powered by women!

This long narrow waterway was built between 1790 and 1805 as a pathway for trade between the Chesapeake Bay, Virginia and the Albemarle Sound. It is the only water-based stop on the Underground Railraod and it became a safe place for escaped slaves and free persons of color to hide on their journey north.  It is also the oldest operating artificial waterway in the country.

The canal is very  narrow and wooded on both sides so it makes for an evocative journey.  We traversed the first of two locks and tied up behind a cool looking boat, a Pilgrim, called Salty Dog.  The couple onboard had picked up the boat in Marathon, FL and were taking it all the way to Ontario for the new owners! We saw only one other boat on the waterway all day.

We stopped about midway through the canal at the Visitor’s Center to stretch our legs.  But it was so darn hot that we quickly moved on.

Once we got underway, we had an infestation of yellow flies!  It was so bad  that Jonny brought a fan onto the flybridge but that was only moderately effective.  Archie was also quite unhappy and couldn’t settle down. He either wanted to be held or he hid in the v-berth.  He wouldn’t eat or drink water and we thought maybe the flies were bothering him too.

But the waterway was quite beautiful and the reflection of the trees on the water was so clear it was almost disorienting - you couldn’t discern up from down!

However, the water itself was so brown from all the tannin it looked like strong steeped tea!

Because we were making good time and the flies were so obnoxious we decided to go to the end of the canal and tie up beyond the second lock.  However, the only place to tie up was just before the lock where there was a beautiful park and free dock! I took Archie for a walk in the park in the village of Deep Creek where he was able to run free and fetch sticks to his heart’s content.  In the meantime, Jonny fussed with the power stanchions for awhile but they didn’t work. No problem, it was nice to have such a pleasant place to stay and we had the generator if we needed it.

Archie was not happy when it was time to return to Zendo but by the time we got back Jonny had used the generator to turn on the AC and cool off the cabin. Archie was still not happy and just sat longingly by the door with his tongue hanging out.

I made a delicious dinner of Chicken Nona, fingerling potatoes and spinach and we ate it outside on the aft deck. A bit later, after dark, we heard a thump and realized that we hadn’t seen Archie in a while. After searching through the whole boat to no avail we realized that he must have jumped onto the dock! Jonny headed out towards the park to find him and thankfully Archie quickly came to him. This was only the second time he had tried that stunt - the last time was last year.  It’s scary when it happens and it’s a good thing we keep his life jacket on him whenever he’s onboard.  It was a rough day for little Archie and hopefully he’ll be better tomorrow!