Thursday, September 10, 2015

Booth Bay Harbor and Love Cove, ME





We had a fabulous day visiting Booth Bay Harbor on Sept. 9, another one of our favorite towns!
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Our sleep was interrupted the night before with the boat rocking and rolling for a couple of hours.  It felt like trying to sleep in a cradle that was being rocked a bit too hard.  During the night the wind clocked around and came in (unpredictably) from the north.  Unfortunately our anchorage was well protected from all but north winds. We awoke to a very foggy morning yet we proceeded with our plan to go to Booth Bay Harbor and then on to another anchorage.  We left at about 7:30 a.m. under our trusty instruments (radar) in the fog. 
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Once we were in the open waters, the sun broke through and the day turned out to be beautiful. We arrived in Booth Bay Harbor around 10:30 (another three hour tour) and tied up at the town dock.
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What a lovely quaint town!  We decided that we prefer Booth Bay over Camden because it is smaller and  more intimate and picturesque.  We’re lucky to be here at the tail end of the tourist season.  It is not very crowded, most places (but not all) are still open, and there are lots of sales!
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We walked around a while and tried to visit the local museum but found that it was closed so we stopped in a couple of shops and bought a few gifts and small items for the boat.
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On the roadside, we happened upon a surprisingly interesting sculpture garden overlooking the water.
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We were surprised to see that leaves on some of the trees are starting to turn already!
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For lunch we enjoyed unbelievably good lobster rolls at a lobster shack next to the harbor.  We’ve never had a lobster roll that included the meat from an entire lobster before!  Accompanied by Maine blueberry soda and chips, it was quite a treat! 
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When you read about cruisers, you learn that ice cream is always a treat when in town. This is likely the case because most of us can’t keep ice cream in our onboard freezers.  We found an especially good place for ice cream in Booth Bay Harbor with a huge selection of homemade ice cream in every imaginable flavor.  Jonny had their blueberry ice cream made with Maine blueberries – got to get them while we can in whatever form is available!
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We left Booth Bay at around 2:30  bound for our next anchorage, the fittingly named Love Bay.  To get there, we went the Southport swing bridge and  through Townsend Gut. 
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This narrow passage way lined with gorgeous homes and festooned with hundreds of lobster pots.   
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This was our quickest cruise yet, only an hour before we arrived at lovely Love Cove.  We took a mooring ball in a tranquil setting with just a few homes of the  traditional New England clapboard and natural shingle design, some with a modern flair.
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We thought we were going to have a relaxing afternoon on the boat but instead Jonny and Robbie spent the entire afternoon on boat repairs.  They removed the pesky davit system from the swim platform and secured it on the sundeck roof.  They continued trying to trouble shoot our broken auto pilot and may have honed into the source of the problem.  We lined up someone in Portland to work on its repair. 
Robbie found some more mussels on shore and brought a mess of them back for dinner. Lynn made mussels with white wine, fettuccini, and grilled zucchini.  These were big mussels, not as delectable as Robbie’s last catch but still delicious.  We are definitely enjoying all the treasures from the sea!
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As a result of the crucial boat repairs required, we need to skip our next planned anchorage and go straight to Portland where we plan to stay for a few days.  Robbie and his wife Linda live on a mountaintop  in West Paris, Maine and they have invited us to stay with them for a couple of days.  We’re looking forward to spending time Portland and visiting them in their special home.
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Camden and Burnt Island, ME



There are so many beautiful places to explore in Maine and we are trying to see as much as we can within our limited time frame.  To that end, we’re trying, when possible, to get to more than one place on some days.   On Tuesday, Sept. 8, we got an early start  in order to spend part of the day in Camden and end up in an anchorage further down the coast.  We headed out on a partly cloudy but warm day.  Our morning cruise to Camden was a short one, only three hours.  We cruised through Penobscot Bay among lots of little islands.  We arrived in Camden, a very quaint and bustling town towards the top of the bay, around 10:30 a.m.
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There we tied up at the town dock for a few hours among some very large boats.
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  We strolled around hungrily awaiting the opening of the restaurant we had chosen for lunch.  We chose well, eating at a restaurant that Robbie and Linda had been to before, called Fresh. 
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We continued strolling the streets for a bit while Lynn bought a few gift items and Jonny found some nautical books at a used book store. 
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Robbie has been singing the praises of a Maine institution called Remy’s and there was one in Camden within walking distance.  So we started the half mile walk on Route 1 to check it out.  The walked seemed a lot longer and hotter than we expected. We had overshot our mark and ended up a mile out of town . After backtracking, we found the store at last.  Remy’s sells everything – especially clothing and practical items, good name brands at discounted prices. How can you go wrong!  Lynn found a couple of flannel shirts and Jonny bought a teapot (that he’s been wanting) and a French press as a backup to our coffee maker.
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We hiked back into town and did a little grocery shopping and returned to the boat.  We wanted to get fuel in Camden but their fuel dock was blocked with another cruiser for the afternoon so we pushed on for our evening’s anchorage.
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When we left Camden, it was getting very hot and humid but as we got underway, things cooled off considerably.  It’s crazy going from short sleeves and shorts to jeans, flannel shirts and windbreakers within an hour or two.  But that’s life on the water.  We need to be ever-adaptable!
After evaluating all of our options using our guide books, the Active Captain crowd sourcing app and Robbie’s friends’ local knowledge, we chose Burnt Island as our anchorage for the night. One of our options was Maple Juice Cove – the names are endlessly creative!  The Burnt Island anchorage was a great choice.  We arrived late for us, around 6:30.  It was a beautiful place with only one other boat nearby. 
After having such a big lunch, we opted for light nibbles  and enjoyed yet another beautiful sunset.
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Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Merchant Harbor, ME




On the morning of Sept. 7, after having breakfast with Mike Goldfield in Southeast Harbor, we left our floating mooring in Northeast Harbor and headed south bound for Isle au Haut where we planned to anchor for the night.  En route we saw this amazing schooner.
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Once we got into the open ocean the waves picked up and though it was sunny and warm, the seas had a fairly significant swell.   We nixed the Isle au Haut plan, contemplated going all the way to Camden, but in the end we opted for a closer anchorage in Merchant Harbor.
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This proved to be a great location.  We were tucked between two islands and only one other boat was anchored nearby.  The islands were lined with huge boulders and very interesting rock formations –  a dramatic landscape! 
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Robbie, Jonny and Lynn dinghied up to the island to explore.   We walked around the entire island and each bend yielded another wonderful rock formation and vista.  This anchorage was a real find!
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Lynn was frustrated because she didn’t have her phone with her for pictures so after Robbie went for a short swim, we headed back to Zendo to pick up the telephoto camera.  Jonny was kind enough to row Lynn back out to the island to get some shots. 
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Later on  we had another delicious dinner of freshly caught mackerel cooked on the grill.  Robbie is a great guest – he not only catches dinner but he does a great job cooking and cleaning up as well (though we do try to take turns on all the boat chores as much as possible)!