Manteo, NC

We had a long day on Thursday, May 17 crossing the Pamlico Sound on our way to Manteo. It was cloudy with a little bit of rain, not as bad as we expected.  While the crossing was mostly OK, the sea was building up to  2 - 3 foot swells that became increasingly uncomfortable as the day wore on. As it got worse, Lynn skipped the idea of going below to make lunch and instead brought granola bars up to stave off our hunger.  We each took turns at the helm since that was the most comfortable place to be.  There was literally no boat traffic probably because the forecast was so poor.

After about 8 hours of this we approached Manteo where we had to follow a very narrow channel with extremely shallow waters on either side. As we were clarifying the location of the town dock, our depth gauge starting fritzing again (bad timing) and we struggled to find the correct route in. Eventually we docked very smoothly without a major fire drill which was a relief since the previous few minutes were pretty tense!  

We were happy to stay at Manteo’s town dock because the first night was free! We were docked right next to this picturesque lighthouse.

We walked into town and discovered what seemed like a very handsome and well-maintained community with lots of red brick buildings. Manteo is on Roanoke Island, part of the Outer Banks of NC.  It was one of the first British  settlements in the new world in the late 1500’s.  It is named for an Indian,  Manteo, who maintained friendly relations between the native Americans and the colonists.  Unfortunately, the colonists disappeared after supplies from England were delayed for three years and the mystery of the “Lost Colony” began.  We quickly found this aptly named local brew pub where we rewarded ourselves with some liquid refreshments.

That evening, Jonny made a great dinner salad with our leftover flank steak and we turned in early. It was a long day!

Because we had arrived so late we decided to stay two nights and take some time to explore the area.  The next morning we got up and took a long walk on the extensive docks that were adjacent to us. 

There were scores of condos built along the waterfront and equally as many empty docks. We didn’t quite understand why. One fellow said the condos were selling well so maybe it was still too early in the season. But it did seem like the “boulevard of empty docks” to us.

Later that morning, we moved Zendo to the adjacent marina which was very quiet and comfortable while Rob went out to rent a bicycle.  

Shortly after, the rain that had been threatening for days finally arrived.  Rob and Jonny were caught in it when they ventured back out to the bike shop for a repair on one of our bikes.  The day was looking like a washout so we decided to treat ourselves to lunch at the Lost Colony.

Fortunately the weather cleared and we rode our bikes a couple of miles to visit a lovely Elizabethan Garden located on several acres and bordering the waterfront.  They were setting up for an outdoor wedding and the workers were convinced that the day was clearing just in time for the ceremony.

Upon returning to Zendo,  Lynn engaged in some healthy retail therapy. Manteo has some very nice shops!  On the way back, she encountered this wild looking animal that was tied with a leash next to the local playground. 

Meanwhile, Jonny and Rob took the dinghy to do a little fishing.  They returned to Zendo very excited because they discovered  a fisherman who was harvesting soft shell crabs. They managed to convince him to sell them four big ones for only $6.00!  Lynn prepared them in our favorite manner, soaked in milk, then dredged in flour and sautéed in butter and olive oil and sprinkled with toasted almonds. What a delicious appetizer we had followed by the rest of the red drum fish that we had purchased in Oriental and frozen. Such a feast!