The winds were out of the north and became higher than predicted with a healthy 2 foot chop and quite a bit of rocking and rolling. Crossing the Chesapeake is not always fun! It has been great having Robbie on board with us. He and Jonny took turns at the helm and traded off on nap times as well.
Fortunately, the waters calmed as we entered the passage to Onancock. This area is just gorgeous with lovely homes nestled on large wooded and landscaped lots.
We anchored near a historic wharf at the center of this little town (more like a village)
Presently, we ventured out for a long walk through town.
One of the highlights was a visit to an art gallery that featured the work of Danny Dougherty whose paintings Lynn just loved. The artist spent a lot of time telling us about growing up in the area and what inspires his work. The gallery was filled with his vibrantly hued, mostly large canvasses depicting the local black culture, mostly the women who cared for the children of white families when he grew up. His work is well regarded and featured in universities and other settings. The colors and style appealed to Lynn greatly but unfortunately the price tags did not!
Many of the shops here were also closed but it appeared that they would be opening in time for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
We stopped for the obligatory beer at the restaurant on the wharf that we had visited 2 years ago. It was in the same building as the town’s original general store. There, Robbie queried some locals about the best way to get to the Norfolk Airport as he was flying out in a couple of days. The people there were very friendly and helpful here and we were so pleased with the town that we decided to stay an extra day.
So on Friday we took the dinghy in to have breakfast at Janet’s Cafe which had been recommended to us.
This charming cafe frequented by the locals was opened and run by a crusty Montauk (Long Island) transplant who immediately took to us when she recognized Jonny’s MTK baseball cap. After a delicious breakfast, we asked her about a place to grocery shop and she recommended her friend who had a farm stand and would even be willing to deliver the items to us at the boat. But since we needed groceries as well, the guys decided to haul our bikes onto the dinghy and ride the couple of miles to the grocery. They did stop at the farm stand where Janet’s friend, Doreen, an even crustier “broad” insisted that they leave their bikes and take her car to shop.
The guys came back loaded down with groceries and then went back to return the car and retrieve the bikes. They also brought back some great strawberries, peaches, asparagus and corn on the cob from the farm stand and promised Doreen that we would see her at the pub later that evening.
Afterwards we returned to the pub where we met up again with all the lovely folks we had met over the last 2 days. One of the women offered to drive Robbie to the airport the next day. We were so impressed by the incredibly warm and friendly people we met everywhere we went in Onancock.
By the way, we struggled with how to pronounce the town’s name - Onancock- so here it is - O (long o) nan ( as in Nancy) cock - with the accent on nan. Got it?
That evening Lynn made scrumptious soft shell crab, local asparagus and corn on the cob for dinner. It was our last night with Rob who sadly, was leaving the next day.
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