Gloucester, MA

On Thursday, July 25 we left Provincetown after a short, but fun visit to head to Gloucester. We left at 8 a.m. under cloudy skies crossing Massachusetts Bay and the Stellwagon Bank where whales are often spotted. Unfortunately we didn’t see one.  Maybe that wasn’t so bad though as social media was full of a recent video showing a whale capsizing a small fishing boat not far from here.  The two fisherman were thrown overboard and fortunately two young men caught the whole event on video and rescued them from the water. 

After a somewhat rolly passage with moderate ocean swells we arrived in Gloucester by 2:15.  We picked up a mooring in the historic inner harbor near Five Pound Island. There is also a Ten Pound Island in the outer harbor.  Legend has it that they were likely named for the number of sheep pens (also known as pounds) on the islands.

We dinghied into the Rocky Neck part of town and tied up at a restaurant dock promising them that we would be back for a drink after walking around a bit.  What an interesting, funky old neighborhood. It was quite evident that many artists live and work here.  The houses were pretty, quirky and colorful.

 There was a plein aire art competition going on and we passed several artists painting in the open air.

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The light in the Cape Ann region where Gloucester is located is just beautiful, clear and soft at the same time. And the art that is made here reflects that special light. 

There were several small galleries that we walked in and out of while Archie waited patiently outside.

There were also a few tantalizing shops and in one of them I couldn’t resist buying an interesting blue striped top with flowing pants that were on sale (and will be perfect to wear in Miami)!  It was a cozy little boutique and the owner, workers and patrons were very chatty and encouraging. 

We kept our promise at 51, the restaurant where we had our dinghy docked.  What a good decision that was! Sitting on the very attractive outdoor deck overlooking the harbor, we ordered drinks and one appetizer to split. It was the most delicious frito misto we’ve ever had! The restaurant is quite new though another restaurant had been there previously.  The rest of the menu looked just as good although we weren’t prepared to have more. But we would return here in a hot second.

The next day we went into the main part of town that we had visited once before.  We went back to the wonderful Cape Ann Museum which is filled with amazing paintings and more from artists who have worked in this area. 

We also made a return visit to the Fisherman’s Memorial Monument walking all along the waterfront with its grassy lawns and gracious homes overlooking the waterfront. Of course, we had to go to the end where a bridge opens on demand to allow boat traffic to enter the very narrow passage to the nearby river.

I love the ever present sounds of the seagulls here.  Their calls are haunting and evocative and so representative of these fishing ports.

That evening we had leftovers for dinner and settled in to begin watching the Olympics.  What an incredible opening night show on the Seine River in Paris (too bad about all that rain)!  We’ll be heading to nearby Rockport the next day where we plan to have dinner with MTOA friends who live nearby.