Fortunately, it was no earlier than our usual wake up time which is between 5:30 and 6:30. The day was overcast but became less so as the sun tried to peek through. We went for a morning walk through East Haddam and found a lovely park with the reconstructed little red schoolhouse where Nathan Hale taught school after he graduated from Yale at 18!
At the park we met a woman who was walking her three dogs. As we chatted for awhile we discovered that she, too, had been married at the Gelston House many years ago - small world! Lots of old interesting architecture lined the streets on our short walk up and down the hilly roads of this small town, including the formidable Goodspeed Opera House.
After walking out on the swing bridge to get another view of Zendo, we returned to our little “yacht” and headed south towards Essex.
As we approached Gillette Castle, we decided to take time to go ashore and visit that unique site. Jonny dropped the anchor and we took the dinghy in to shore and tied up on a dead tree. The grounds around Gillette Castle are extensive and there are many well-marked trails. Although the castle was closed due to Covid there were several small groups exploring the grounds.
Gillette Castle was designed and commissioned by William Gillette, an American actor who was famous for portraying Sherlock Holmes on stage. It took five years to build and was completed in 1919. It is built of wood, cement and lots and lots of Connecticut fieldstone. It has been described as medieval gothic or a “weird combination of American fairy tale and European flair.” We had been here many years ago and were able to tour inside but this time we could only wander its perimeter and grounds. It is really quite fascinating.
After a time, we continued our cruise a bit further south to Essex which is located on the west side of the river. There was a comfortable anchorage on the east side of the river where we dropped the hook and took the dinghy to the town dock. The Essex harbor is filled with beautiful classic sailboats and is well known as a yachting center.
We strolled up the very charming Main Street lined with shops and galleries in stately old buildings. The many historic homes in town were immaculately maintained and there were several historic markers noting significant events.
Essex, first known as Pettipaug, was settled in 1648 and incorporated in 1852. It was known as a shipbuilding center and is one of the few American towns to ever be attacked by a foreign power. This was during the War of 1812 when 28 vessels housed there were destroyed by the British. As the shipbuilding industry faded, the growth of ivory and piano parts grew in the village of Ivoryton. Many of the beautiful homes in the area were built after the Civil War and were owned by the titans of those industries.
We walked up and down the streets of Essex late in the afternoon but decided to pass on having a drink at the famous and historic Griswold Inn.
After strolling along the town dock we headed back to Zendo for a dinner of our substantial leftovers from the Gelston House. We were about to settle in for the night when Jonny turned on the generator to recharge the batteries and checked the water flow. He saw that the cooling water was not flowing and he immediately shut down the generator. He proceeded to check the strainers which were OK and then checked the hoses that showed that the impeller was not pumping water. Fortunately he had spares and had to spend the next hour and a half replacing the worn impeller. Another great repair job was completed by our very competent captain!
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